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Miles to date: 2,281.6

Today was the type of day we’ve worked for. I’ve been telling the guys that the average daily mileage for this journey is planned at 67; through yesterday we’ve averaged 74. Granted, we had a day of significant extra miles when we were denied crossing at the Little Goose dam across the Snake River, but that was only 30-35 miles (about a mile per day add to the 30 day average). I’ve been saying days in Leg 5 and beyond get shorter, and today that started to come true.

We rode a total of 63.7 miles today; it was a gorgeous day in central Wisconsin; we felt like we were on vacation. Late yesterday the campground filled in with 4-5 truckloads of a fishing family from southern Illinois and western Tennessee. They were quiet enough last night, but their bothersome banter this morning drove us away from camp as quickly as we could pack up; we rolled out just before 8am after coffee, instant oatmeal and blueberries.

We passed again through the town of Perot where we had a beer and got groceries yesterday. We talked about stopping to count teeth again at the local tavern: it’s a game we like to play at these podunk watering holes. Yesterday I was glad to have two hands for counting because there were three patrons in the bar. But… it was too early this morning for a lunchtime beer (even for us vacationing pilgrims).

The wind was gently favorable, the temperature was around 60 F, and the roads were smooth. Around 9:15 we were in Alma for our first break; it felt easy and we were making great time; there, some deliberation began about the day’s plan. A suggestion was offered: we could ride 80 miles today and make it to LaCrosse… 🤔

The original plan was to ride a short 58 miles to the Perot State Park campground. Then have dinner at Sullivan’s Supper Club, where we had a memorable evening 3 years ago celebrating daughter Sarah’s birthday after we spent the day kayaking on the Mississippi. Today was meant to be a leisure ride with reminiscing about that river journey and again celebrating our current adventure at the Supper Club. An 80 mile day to LaCrosse sounded like work that would only shave 20 miles off our day for tomorrow or Saturday, when conditions may be less favorable. I’m grateful we decided to stay the course, and spend today on vacation from the typical toil.

We stopped for a saddle break in Fountain City WI. We were due for a break and Fountain City came at the right time, but sometimes when you’re on a long vacationing road trip, when you don’t know what’s around the next bend, you make a choice to stay and rest that you regret when you come to the next exit. Welcome to Fountain City.

Though we needed no provisions, we stopped at the Kwik Trip because it seemed to make sense; every vacation has its low point.

As we left the Kwik Trip, I rode a very short distance before declaring… flat. The was no semblance of leaking tire when we arrived at the Kwik Trip, but now the Gypsy has been cursed again. I’ve now suffered more flats than there were teeth in the patrons at the Pepin watering hole. (Gypsy: 8, Lecy: 4, Geeto: 3).

After Fountain, we tempted fate by crossing back over to MN for lunch in Winona. This added another 3 miles to our journey, but it seemed proper to do some site seeing on our vacation. We sat outside a cafe on the Winona main street and, like proper old men, planned our day around upcoming meals.

After lunch we had a short 7 mile ride to our home for the night in Trempeleau. In contrast to Fountain City, Trempeleau is a lovely town; our Inn at the River hotel is across the street from the Burlington Northern RR that runs along the eastern bank of the Mississippi.

After a shower and short rest, we saddled up to head to dinner. Geeto wanted to stay in town to eat at a hotel bar where a live band was set to appear, but Lecy and I promised he would not be disappointed with Sullivan’s Supper Club. It was a one-mile ride up the road, but going Al Roker style felt free and easy. When we were parking the bikes, a strangely familiar voice greeted us… Dump Bar Sally!

Sally is a first cousin of Katy who is partnered to Jerry Lecy (Mark’s dad). A more than distant relation, but Sally got plugged into the Riverquest blog three years ago and she brought us pizza and beers one night as we kayaked near her home of DeSoto. As an avid biker, she’s again been plugged into our blog and decided to surprise us tonight with… more dump bars! (It’s an energy bar made nearby that her husband used to get from an acquaintance at the city dump.) We were surprised, touched, honored and grateful that Sally agreed to join us for a drink at Sullivan’s.

Early in our conversation, we learned Sally’s husband, Larry, passed away 9 days ago after complications following a battle with prostate cancer. As I said, she’s an avid biker so she’s been very interested in the blog. The loss of her husband came relatively quickly, though at 85 and not in the greatest health, it was not quite unexpectedly. We learned about Larry and heard more of Sally’s background than I knew in our first meeting.

After graduating high school in 1970, Sally was a bit of a free spirit. Her brothers went off to college, but women of her era in Ohio were meant to be housewives. Sally had other ideas, which started with a hitchhiking career. She made her way around the country, spending some time in California, before returning to the Midwest and a waitress job. Larry was a tobacco farmer who came to breakfast every day at Sally’s restaurant. One day in conversation with Sally about her future, Larry said, “How about a future with me?” They had two sons and Sally and Larry had a wonderful 49 years together. I’m sure I would’ve liked to meet Larry; and we were very touched that Sally chose to come out today to see us despite her grief. Larry’s funeral is on Saturday; I hope it’s a wonderful celebration for another wonderful Larry: Larry Sletten Obituary

Sally stayed with us for dinner; we had lovely meals in a great Wisconsin supper club atmosphere. Geeto was not disappointed with our dinner decision. Then, when Sally left, we went to the bar for our brandy Alexander desserts. Now Geeto was definitely not disappointed.

As we were finishing our desserts, the bartender overheard me saying that I really wanted a grasshopper, but felt compelled to join my pilgrims with the brandy drink. Magically, a mixing bowl of grasshopper appeared, “It’s the leftovers… I’ll have to throw it out anyway.” I dipped my spoon a few times, then, he filled a styrofoam cup for me to take on the road. it fit nicely in my water bottle holster and we pedaled back to the inn, again wondering how we are so blessed to have these wonderful experiences. Earlier, Sally said, “You’re nice guys, so you meet nice people.” which I’m sure holds a lot of truth.

Vacation… time to get away. Indeed.

Tomorrow, looks like our old friend headwind may return as we head southeast. Another short ride planned for tomorrow in our Leg 5 vacation, most of it will be on crushed limestone patch, away from the cars and noise: Day 31: Trempeleau to Norwalk

I didn’t think I’d do this, but on the urging of my pilgrim partners, I’m putting an obvious vacation themed addition to the playlist. I guess I already have a Cher guilty pleasure song on the list, and a Neil Diamond clunker that I just learned was written after he saw an advanced viewing of E.T.; I enjoy plenty of Neil Diamond, but Heartlight is no Cracklin’ Rosie and I still can’t believe I added this to the Pedaling Pilgrims Playlist. So here’s one more questionable addition: Vacation

Also… as an homage to possibly our most devoted blog follower… In fact, since she tracked us down in Trempeleau and followed us to Sullivan’s, she’s really a bit of a stalker. I should probably be afraid. But she came bearing gifts, and though I’ve only met her twice I know her as a lovely and caring human. I thought about adding Wilson Picket’s Mustang Sally to the list, because I hate to repeat songs from my Riverquest playlist, but again I need to make an exception for Dump Bar Sally and add the Robert Palmer song as the best Sally offering out there: Sneaking’ Sally Through the Alley