Pedaling Pilgrim Blog Home

Miles to date: 1,749.4

The days off are dangerous. Living with wonderful people even for 36 hours in their wonderful life makes it easy to forget we have a mission. At dinner last night we threatened to stay at the Beiswanger’s for weeks, which seemed like a natural expectation because they were so accommodating, but again we have to escape the alluring song of the sirens and return to our voyage, no matter how hard.

We also had lovely visits with my former next door neighbors (Paul and Joanie), and shared a happy hour beer with my almost boss, Al Anderson. I was in the back of a London black cab in 2003 when Al offered me a job back at the refinery in Mandan ND; I periodically wonder what my life would’ve turned out like if I had accepted that offer. I know for certain that had I returned to North Dakota, the people would have been a true treasure in every way. I hope to be back to visit with Christin soon; and again I am overjoyed to witness the instant bond between my riding partners and these ND treasures.

Talking with Al yesterday, I explained our coast to coast quest. He informed me of his journey in 1977 when he got out of the marines, he and a fellow marine biked with all of their belongings in USMC packs on their backs from San Francisco to their homes in Williston North Dakota. That’s a ride around 1,600 miles through mountains in California, Idaho and Montana, and across Nevada deserts. Similar to our adventure they had little idea what they were getting into; and they did not have the advantage of mapping apps and payment by plastic or the tap of a phone. As they say, “game recognizes game”, or in this instance “semi-crazy nods to semi-crazy”, I’ve always known Al as a kindred spirit that I respect; I’m glad to know he too has been superbly confident in taking on heroic adventures.

Our steeds spent our 36 hour break at 701 Cycle for tune ups and adjustments. Jared and crew are top notch; I would highly recommend 701 Cycle to anyone. They filled us with confidence as we left with our rides in better than new condition to finish our journey. Where our hosts induced a longing for home and the loving embrace of friends and families; Jared and crew left us wanting to prove we’re up to the task of battling roads and elements for another 2,000 miles.

45 miles into the soul-destroying wind today, we arrived in quiet Hazelton. In stark contrast to the tailwind that whisked us into Bismarck, the ESE headwinds slowly sapped our energy and challenged our resolve. But after a long break and some fuel and hydration, our souls were rejuvenated and we struck out for Napoleon another 25 miles down Hwy 34.

In Napoleon we stopped at the market to provision for dinner and breakfast. Geeto was in need of some liquid moral courage, but the bar in town didn’t open until 4pm. On our way out of town we tried the clubhouse at the golf course, but the bar was closed with nobody around. We lounged for a bit in Adirondack chairs overlooking the 18th green and agreed our target for today and tomorrow. Tonight the plan was to stealth camp within 2 miles of Hwy 30. Then tomorrow our goal is the Bear Creek Lodge in Verona. Proprietor Kristy said the children in town have disappeared, so they converted the school into a “lodge”. Maybe Verona is the basis of that movie Weapons where all the kids run away? I hope to inform you tomorrow.

Tonight, we also have interesting accommodations. We were looking for a soft, level spot that was not fenced in and well off the highway. What we settled on is a property behind a barbed wire fence with a sign indicating it was part of a bee farm. When I contacted the bee people, they told me they lease the land from Sally Slayer; they gave me Ms. Slayer’s phone number, but she didn’t answer. So, we’re taking our chances on the Slayer property with its ramshackle house; it’s an active cow pasture where the biggest challenge was tent spots free of cow patties. The whole place smells faintly of manure and is infested with crickets. But, we’re now settled in for an early bed and early rise.

Tomorrow’s route promises another 92 miles with a similar wind forecast. We’ll see how we hold up to two long days of beat down: Day 25: Slayer’s to Verona

Today was my daughter Sarah’s birthday; and she shares a birthday with my nephew Joe. Thankfully my mobile reception was good enough at the Slayer property that I could join the Happy Birthday chorus. My wife Christin was there, her mom Sandy, my son Isaac, Joe’s wife Hailee, son-in-law Jacob, and my daughter Caroline was dialed in from Corvallis. I wished I was there, but I knew undertaking this adventure would keep me from these sorts of events.

For the playlist, I’m again putting two up. First, as it’s our first stealth camp, though we’re only 100’ from the highway and surrounded by barbed wire in the midst of a cow pasture, it still feels like we’re out in the wild. Or, at least it feels strange and new: Stranger in a Strange Land

Second, since we are stealth camping, there are none of the typical campground amenities. I peeked inside the ramshackle house, and there is no toilet. So, tomorrow I’ll be pulling out the Chelsea bag with my plastic spade and roll of TP, since there is no Porcelain.

Note: Mobile reception is really spotty tonight. Many photos are having trouble loading, and video loading is unlikely to be successful. I’ll likely have to update this again tomorrow when I have some better connectivity, so come back for updates.

Note 2: I think yesterday I figured out how to ensure all past posts are available. For those that joined late and want to see the history (or just for Lynn who wanted to see that naked hiker on Day 4, everything should be available to scroll back to now.